Features of Kreg SML-C125
Softwood to softwood 1000 pack
Kreg's self-tapping screws were designed for its famous pocket-hole joinery, but that's not all they're good for. Kreg's self-tapping auger point eliminates time-consuming pre-drilling, and these screws are made from the highest quality steel, case-hardened and coated with a dri-lube finish. That means less driving torque for you. This coarse-thread screw has a larger thread diameter and provides greater holding power when driving a screw into soft material such as plywood, particle board, MDF, melamine and pine. The washer head offers a great surface area to seat the screw firmly and helps prevent overdriving. They're on the spendy side, but the quality is worth it.--Kris Jensen-Van Heste
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Kreg SML-C125 Customer Review(s):
Summary: Self Boaring!
Rating: 5 (out of 5)
Comment: These screws work really good with Kreg's drill bit with pilot hole tip (3/8' diameter). It is self boaring so it doesn't split the wood. The coarse one works for soft wood like pine and plywood. Use fine screws for hard wood. Wish these screws were a little cheaper.
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Summary: You need the coarse AND the fine screws
Rating: 5 (out of 5)
Comment: I had read a review that stated they were using the fine screws for everything. I found that when using soft pine, and more importantly into plywood, the fine screws were on the edge of getting the job done. All you had to do was remove one of the screws and reinsert it, to see what I mean. In my opinion getting the coarse screws, and the fine screws is essential.
These screws have a very sharp tip on them, and the shaft thickness is thin as well. Consequently you do not need to pre-drill unless you are using them close to an edge of a soft wood. In that condition the thin edge can bulge a little.
The great thing about pocket hole screws is their convenience, and strength especially when used in pairs. You will find your self using these more and more often. I even use them on straight joinery by drilling with a forstner bit to create a straight pocket, then go right in with the pocket hole screws. Admittedly by using the kreg jig, and getting an angled installation is stronger than going in straight. The angle prevents tugging on just the threads, but rather creates strength by having to pull the angled shaft through the wood. That is a lot stronger except in the rare condition of pressure being exerted at the direct angle of insertion-not likely.
Their is some difference of opinion as to whether it is advisable to use glue in conjunction with pocket hole screws. One camp states that since the screws hold so well when done in pairs, that you do not need to use glue. Additionally, that gives you the option of being able to remove the joint, in the event you need to resize for example, or disassemble for shipping. Additionally their argument states that since the pocket hole screw system holds so tight, any glue that is put in the seam will be squeezed out.
The other camp feels that for security purposes, gluing and screwing is the way to go. In the book, 'Building Kitchen Cabinets' by Udo Schmidt (an excellent book by the way) the author states, 'The expense of a pocket hole-drilling jig will easily be repaid in the time you save assembling face frames.
So if you are contemplating getting the Kreg jig assembly, it comes highly recommended. If you are thinking about buying the screws, I recommend you getting the coarse and fine screws in the 1 1/4' format, since they are useful for joining 3/4' wood. Additionally you should get the screw kit with a variety of different length screws for those times when you are dealing with different stock thickness.
In a recent magazine doing a run off of different manufacturers pocket hole jigs, Kreg took first place in every size jig-first place across the board. Hope this helps.
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